Sunday, 29 April 2018

Waterfalls of Stars, My Ten Years on the Island of Skomer by Rosanne Alexander



I found this book via a review in Planet Magazine, but I will be honest when it arrived at 350 pages of pretty small print I think I let out a sigh – was there really that much to say about 10 years spent on a tiny island? I share this because while I picked it up fairly reluctantly, having picked it up I found that I couldn’t put it down.

Rosanne’s arrival on the island is a bit of a scramble, including a shot gun wedding, and one is worried that this will turn out to be an epic of regret and frustration. But once on the island Rosanne rapidly falls in love with it.

She provides an account, a generally positive account, of isolation that is almost impossible today. They have no electricity, no phone, only brief radio communication via the Coastguard. Later wardens of Skomer now have electricity, connectivity. Does “keeping in touch” lessen or underscore the separation, possible loneliness – and does it provide a distraction from the deep connection with the island and its wildlife that was so central to the joy Rosanne found on the island.

There is a poetic quality to the descriptions of the island, the sea, the various animals, and the emotional responses Rosanne has to it all. She has real skill as a writer, the subject matter is rich but she draws you into its very heart.

She also has the lightness of touch to play on the humour of many situations, for example almost all the anecdotes involving Wellington the goat.

But throughout the account there are moments that will make you weep, such as the oil spills impact on the seals and sea birds, gut wrenching in the shared sense of helplessness, hopelessness. Or their recovery of the body of a drowned fisherman.

Alongside these are more intimate, but not less powerful, moments – when they have to re-home “The Raven”, an injured bird they had hoped to nurse back to health and a return to the wild, but it was not to be.

As they prepare his departure “He was extraordinarily quiet and well behaved as he was transferred to the small cage. Perhaps subdued would have been a better word. He was such an intelligent bird that I couldn’t help wondering how much he understood of what was happening.” and then “’Hello’ he said quietly, for the last time.” Hello was the only word The Raven had learned, that the moment of separation is marked with this incongruous word broke me. It probably doesn’t make sense quoted like this but in the flow of the account you are riding the ebb and flow of emotion with Rosanne.

And ultimately we come to their departure from Skomer, in a mirror to her arrival, it is forces beyond her control that determine the timing – she has time to say goodbye, but no choice over the need to say goodbye.

You are left with the sense of not having read about life on Skomer but having lived it. I don’t think there is high praise to give to a writer.

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